A Detailed Guide to Dingle’s Slea Head Drive
If you’re planning a trip in Ireland, you’ve probably read about the Ring of Kerry drive in the southwest part of the country. It’s less likely you’ve heard of the Slea Head Drive in Dingle, though. While both are similar, if you can only do one, I recommend heading to Dingle for the Slea Head Drive!
In this guide, I’ll briefly break down the differences between the Ring of Kerry and Slea Head Drive. From there, I’ll dive into the highlights of the drive.
Updated August 2024
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The Ring of Kerry Versus the Slea Head Drive
At first, you might think the Ring of Kerry is the obvious choice between the two. It’s significantly longer at 130 miles rather than the 30-mile drive that Slea Head offers. Because the drive is longer, there are more things to see. You drive through the popular cities of Killarney and Kenmare. To cap it off, many people say it has some of the most beautiful sights in all of Ireland including the Gap of Dunloe and Killarney National Park.
With all that said, why should you pick the Slea Head Drive instead? For all of the same things I listed above.
Hear me out.
Because of how long the Ring of Kerry is and how much there is to see, you have to commit almost a whole day to it. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but if you’re trying to maximize your time in Ireland, you may not want to dedicate an entire day to that. The Slea Head Drive take about five hours, which still gives you plenty of time to explore Dingle or move on to your next stop in Ireland.
Additionally, the Slea Head Drive is a much more compact drive with proportionally just as much to see. That means you can spend more time at each site. Further, the Slea Head Drive is less popular and well-known than the Ring of Kerry. So, there are less tourists visiting each location. These two reasons combine to create a more intimate experience for those doing the Slea Head Drive.
Another thing to consider is the homebase for each drive. The biggest town to stay in for the Slea Head Drive is Dingle, which comes much more recommended by most people than Kenmare, where most people stay for the Ring of Kerry.
What to Expect with the Slea Head Drive
Before I get into the drive, I want to go over some general info first. As I mentioned above, Dingle is where you’ll start and end your drive. As such, you should plan to stay in Dingle for a couple days to visit the town itself.
The Slea Head Drive has a couple places to stop for food along the way. Still, my recommendation is to bring your own picnic. Besides saving you money, this option lets you have your lunch whenever and wherever you like along your drive.
My guide has Oceanworld by Dingle Harbor as the start of the Slea Head Drive. Reset your odometer here so that each kilometer marker in this guide matches up with where you’re at on the drive.
It’s important to note that the drive should be done in a clockwise direction to avoid tour buses. As such, shortly after passing Oceanworld you’ll come to a roundabout where you turn left to start the drive. You’ll see signs along the road in case you get lost. There are a couple stops near the end of this itinerary that take you off the main road, but I’ll detail these later.
Our drive took around five hours including a stop at West Kerry Brewery for a beer and lunch. I spend a lot of time exploring ruins, so you could possibly do the drive in 3-4 hours if you’re quick.
Make sure you have enough gas to complete the drive. It’s only 30 miles, but there are no gas stations once you leave Dingle.
Finally, bring some euros in cash. Some of these stops require a fee and do not accept credit cards.
Now that all of that is out of the way, let’s start driving!
Slea Head Drive Stop #1 – Ventry Beach (6.6 km)
If you visited Inch Beach on your way to Dingle, Ventry Beach is similar in that it is a flat, wide beach with sweeping views out into the harbor and, farther out, Dingle Bay. When we visited, the skies were gray, the weather damp and cool, and there were a handful of fishing boats out in the harbor. It all added up to make a perfect atmosphere for the start of this Irish drive.
You can take guided horseback rides along the beach with Long’s Horseriding Centre. We did not personally do this because of the time commitment, but we did see a few people doing a tour. If you have time or want to come back another day, this could be a great way to visit the beach.
Slea Head Drive Stop #2 – Ring Fort (12 km)
This ring fort is a small, unexcavated relic from Ireland’s ancient past. The fort itself resembles little more than raised hedgerows at this point. You can climb along the raised edges and try to imagine what it would have been like here thousands of years ago.
Depending on who you ask (my wife, for instance), the real draw of this stop are the roving farm animals you can feed. For a couple euros you get to feed and milk the pigs, goats, sheep, horses and donkeys wandering around.
Just a word of warning: When we were there, a couple of the big pigs were a little aggressive. If you have someone who is skittish around animals, you may want to skip the food.
Slea Head Drive Stop #3 – Dunberg Fort (12.5 km)
Dating from the Iron Age, Dunberg Fort sits up against some of Ireland’s dramatic ocean cliffsides. There’s a €3.50 fee to enter. You get a small brochure explaining the history of the fort with your entry fee which is important to add substance to what is otherwise some rather nondescript rock walls.
You used to be able to walk through the fort, but some years ago a storm caused part of the fort to fall into the sea. Unlike Dun Aengus in Inis Mór, another cliffside fort that you can walk through, you can only get so close to Dunberg Fort for safety reasons.
The fort is neat, but it’s a little disappointing you can’t get very close to it. However, there are some good views of the waves crashing against the cliffside you can see.
Slea Head Drive Stop #4 – Famine Cottages (12.5 km)
Just a very short way up the road and to the right from Dunberg Fort is a small homestead displaying original famine cottages for another small fee. These cottages were abandoned by the Kavanaugh family during the Great Famine.
The brochure you get when you enter gives some details about what the Kavanaughs faced during this time. There are also several detailed signs describing the famine itself and what the Irish people endured. Some of the information is kind of grisly, but it does a great job at painting a picture of the era.
This stop also has roving animals you can feed. Food is available with the fee you paid to enter. We passed on this opportunity this time around. We both felt bad about it (as if these animals don’t get fed!), especially after the owner said, “Already had your fill at the first stop then, huh?” Make sure you save some of your animal-feeding itch for this stop!
Slea Head Drive Stop #5 – Beehive Huts (13 km)
A little up the road from the famine cottage is a set of reconstructed beehive huts you can walk around for an additional small fee. Despite being reconstructions, they’re still fascinating to wonder at and walk through. You can even walk inside them and imagine being a monk living here in the Middle Ages.
About 1.5 km farther up the road is another set of original beehive huts on the left. We chose not to stop at these, having read that the first stop was the better option. This second stop could be a better choice if you have kids as they can hold a baby lamb here for €4.
Slea Head Drive Stop #6 – White Crucifix (16 km)
This point of the drive has the Slea Head crucifix, a gorgeous alabaster white statue of a crucifixion scene set amidst the black and gray rocks. It’s worth a quick stop to take in the details.
I’m not a religious person, but there is something about this statue set in the rocks that is absolutely mesmerizing. It’s such a perfect juxtaposition with the rocks and the misty, bleak ocean atmosphere all around you.
Slea Head Drive Stop #7 – Viewing Area (17 km)
This unnamed stop is worth making for some great views of the Blasket Islands and Dunmore Head a little farther up the coast.
If you’d like to hike to the tip of Dunmore Head, keep an eye out for a parking lot between here and the next listed stop. We skipped this so I can’t speak to the quality of the hike.
You can see the view from this area in the featured image at the top of this post.
Slea Head Drive Stop #8 – Great Blasket Centre (21 km)
We didn’t make this stop as it was closed due to COVID-19 restrictions when we visited in 2021. I feel it’s still worth mentioning due to the popularity of this museum.
The Great Blasket Centre (you may also see it written elsewhere simply as the Blasket Centre) tells the story of the former inhabitants of the namesake island and their culture.
During warmer months when the ocean is agreeable, you can take a ferry from Dingle to the Blasket Islands for a tour. There are even a few cottages you can rent if you want to stay overnight for a unique Irish experience.
Slea Head Drive Stop #9 – Clogher Head (23 km)
Clogher Head was my favorite stop along the whole drive. The views from here are stunning no matter which direction you’re looking.
Some of the landmarks you can see ahead up along the coast, in order, are Sybil Head, the Three Sisters and then Mount Brandon. Looking out into the ocean you can see the Blasket Islands, the Sleeping Giant and the Skellig islands.
In addition to the views, there is also a fun little hike you can do that takes you out almost to the very edge of the coastal cliffs. In total, the hike only takes around 20-30 minutes out and back., yet it’s absolutely worth it for the views. When we went in early September, the hike was also covered in gorgeous yellow and purple heather that made Clogher Head even more impressive.
Optional Stop – West Kerry Brewery (30 km)
West Kerry Brewery is the perfect place to stop for a drink and some food after all the driving and sightseeing so far. The pub itself is nice with lots of various decorations and an outdoor garden sitting area with some scenic views.
The beer we had was very good. I had their Carraig Dubh, a dark porter with chocolate and coffee notes. If you like dark beer, I definitely recommend giving that a try. Michelle had the Béal Bán, a golden ale, which she enjoyed.
Slea Head Drive Stop #10 – Reasc Monastery (30 km)
Just past West Kerry Brewery on the right is a small, unmarked road going up the hill. It’s very easy to miss, so keep your eyes peeled. At the top of this road is Reasc Monastery, a settlement dating back to the 6th century.
Now, the monastery is mostly just remnants of piled rocks that formed walls and beehive huts. Like the earlier beehive huts you saw, it’s just impressive walking around these ruins and thinking how it must have been living here hundreds of years ago. This area is also nice because not as many people visit it, so it’s a peaceful stop among the more touristed parts of the drive.
There are two highlights at the monastery that stand out among the walls. The main one is the Ogham standing stone. This stone is likely the first thing you’ll notice upon arriving at the Monastery. Despite the settlement being Christian, the stone is actually Celtic in origin. The monks simply drew a cross over some of the design to make it more Christian in appearance.
The second highlight is the kiln that the monks used to earn money. Unlike the standing stone, this does take a little bit of effort to find. There’s a sign that shows where various structures are, but the map isn’t oriented in a way that makes sense with how you’re looking at it. It actually makes it kind of fun. It’s like a puzzle trying to figure out where the kiln is.
Slea Head Drive Stop #11 – Gallarus Oratory (33 km)
Gallarus Oratory is a millennia-old church built by Ireland’s early Christians. Despite being roughly 1,300 years old, the construction is still mostly intact from when it was first used.
The construction is impressive to admire in its practical simplicity. Yet, like with some of the other ruins mentioned in this post, the construction is not the draw. Not for me, at least.
The best part of the oratory is walking inside the church and marveling at its evocative setting. In and of itself, the inside is frankly unremarkable, but it’s such an evocative experience when you consider how old it is.
To get to this stop, follow the sign to turn off the main road. From here, there are two parking lots. The first lot is the official lot. To park here you have to pay a small fee, but you also get access to the visitor center where you can watch a short video detailing the site. If you want to skip the visitor center and park for free, continue up the lane from the main road till you see a small parking area to your left.
We skipped the video in favor of free parking. I still thoroughly enjoyed our stop here. Maybe the video would have added to my enjoyment, but not seeing it certainly didn’t detract from my time here.
At this point of the drive, you’re going to leave the main Slea Head Drive route. If you are ready to head back to Dingle, stay on the main road and skip these two stops. From Gallarus Oratory, head back to the road from where you turned right on to the small lane. Continue northward on R-559 until you come to a junction in the village of Murreagh. Turn right to continue on R-559. Both stops are on this stretch of R-559.
Slea Head Drive Stop #12 – St Brendan’s Oratory (37 km)
St Brendan’s Oratory is similar to Gallarus Oratory except older and with far less people. In fact, when we visited, we were the only people there until a local came up the path on her daily walk. She was surprised that anyone else was there.
If you like ruins, you should definitely stop here. If not, you can probably skip it and head to the next stop.
Getting to this second-to-last stop is a little tricky if you don’t know what to look for. After following the directions listed above, look for a small, modern cemetery on the right side of the road. Park here and look across the road for a rough-looking path through the hedge. Once you find the trail, take it for about 200 yards to access the oratory.
Slea Head Drive Stop #13 – Kilmalkeder Church (37 km)
Just a little farther along the road from St Brendan’s Oratory, you’ll find Kilmalkedar Church on your left. Look for a yellow hiker sign, but you’ll also likely see other cars or tour vans parked along the lane leading to the church.
Like with St Brendan’s Oratory, if you are getting exhausted and don’t particularly like ruins, you could skip this last stop. However, the church ruins have some great architectural details and several artifacts that I think are well worth seeing.
The church itself dates to the 12th century, but there is evidence of the importance of this area going back to the 6th or 7th century.
Highlights of Kilmalkedar include an early Christian cross, an Ogham standing stone, the sundial stone and the alphabet stone. Besides these stand-alone features, the church itself also has some excellent examples of Romanesque motifs found on some of its arches.
Once you’re done exploring the church, continue along R-559 to eventually return to Dingle. Once back, grab a Guinness and reflect on everything you just saw!
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