Slowing Things Down for Two Days in County Cork
Tucked away on the southern coast of Ireland, County Cork offers travelers a chance to slow down during their trip around the country. And that’s saying something as Ireland is generally a slow traveler’s paradise!
Which is exactly what we did. We stopped in County Cork for two days on our way from Dingle to Kilkenny. Our trip skipped the bigger sights of Blarney Castle and Cork and focused instead on the adorable port towns of Kinsale and Cobh. Two days were plenty to get the rest we needed while still having enough time to enjoy these two towns to their fullest.
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Orientation to County Cork
County Cork sits on Ireland’s southern edge and is home to Ireland’s second most populous city, Cork. More importantly, it has two historically significant port towns, Kinsale and Cobh, tourists can visit for history, culture and relaxation.
Kinsale is the much smaller of the two towns with a population of only 5,300. A visit here feels like a trip to small-town Ireland with a maritime ambience. There’s a large harbor and dock with many boats of varying size. It has two British naval forts from the 17th century. There are also a dizzying number of pastel-colored homes and storefronts.
If you’re looking for history, Kinsale was the site of an invasion by the Spanish Armada in 1601 and is located near to where the Lusitania was sunk by U-boats during World War I. For culture, there are a large number of pubs where you can sit and listen to some traditional Irish music while listening to local banter.
Cobh, larger than Kinsale with a population of 13,000, sits just a little outside of Cork. We didn’t visit Cobh as extensively as Kinsale, but we did spend a few hours there admiring its harbor and its heritage museum.
Cobh has one of the more important ports in Ireland. Many of Ireland’s sons and daughters left from here for a better life, spreading Irish heritage across the globe. This is also the port from which the Titanic had its last stop before its infamous trip.
If you’re coming from or going to Dingle by way of County Cork, check out my detailed guide to the Slea Head Drive, a great alternative to the more touristed Ring of Kerry.
What to do in County Cork
During our visit to County Cork, we focused most of our time in Kinsale and Cobh. But what about Cork and Blarney Castle, you say?
We wanted to slow things down and focus on some of the smaller port towns during our visit. You could fit more into your two days in County Cork than we did depending on how you plan things.
The Queenstown Story (Cobh)
The Queenstown Story museum in Ireland tells the story of Irish emigration from Cobh, the town where 2.5 million of the 6 million Irish immigrants to North America came from. There are various exhibits describing the history of Irish emigration including the major causes, the process and where different groups of emigrants went.
There’s an interactive element to the Queenstown Story, too. With your ticket, you’re given a passport for one of the actual people who left Ireland from Cobh. At various points in the tour, you can scan the passport to learn more about the individual’s life.
In addition to the story of Irish emigration, there are also extensive exhibits on the Lusitania and Titanic. Despite their historical significance, these are the two parts of the museum I liked the least. They seemed tacked on and inconsistent with the rest of the museum. To make matters worse, both exhibits contained lots of artifacts at the end of an already busy museum. It was difficult to pay attention at this point.
At the end of the museum are some computers where you can search Cobh’s genealogical records for any ancestors who may have come from Cobh. You can also pay €60 for a one-on-one consultation with one of their experts to go over their records.
Jameson Midleton Distillery (Outside Cobh)
A visit to the Old Midleton Distillery has various tours and experiences depending on how much you like whisky and your budget. My recommendation for whisky aficionados is the Jameson Experience Tour with Premium Whisky Tasting for €48.
This hour-long tour takes you through the distillery grounds where you can admire the old buildings with their stark red shutters and into the different buildings to see the whisky-making process. At the end of the tour is a brief tasting comparing different types of whisky and then an included drink in the distillery’s bar.
After the tour is my favorite part: the Premium Whisky Tasting. The tasting consists of four different hearty samples of popular Irish brands. During your tasting, a Jameson Ambassador will guide you through the history and notes of each whisky.
Just make sure you have a way to get back to where you’re staying!
Sounds fun, right? Here is my full guide to the Jameson Experience Tour to whet your appetite even more!
James Fort (Kinsale)
James Fort is one of two 17th century forts built to protect Kinsale’s harbor (the other being the more prominent Charles Fort). Unlike Charles Fort, James Fort is much more ruined, and in fact, you aren’t even able to enter its interior.
Despite that, a visit here makes for an interesting experience. You can walk around its walls and down into a short subterranean passageway while taking in the silent, evocative atmosphere. There are also a couple spots where the ramparts open up for you to walk out to see spectacular views along the harbor.
Getting to James Fort is a little difficult. Take Pier Road across the bridge out of town, turn left and continue till you reach the marina. After you park, there’s a small alleyway next to a pub with a trail leading to the left with tall ramparts on either side. Take this trail for a few minutes till you reach the fort.
Wander Around Kinsale
Walking aimlessly around the streets of Kinsale is the highlight of this sleepy port town. There are countless little shops, pubs, colorful buildings and historical highlights worth seeing that don’t quite merit a whole paragraph by themselves.
Take your time to walk around. Grab a pint or two along the way. Peruse some stores. Visit the cemetery outside of St Multose Church and see if you can find the graves for victims from the Lusitania sinking (because I couldn’t, and an impending rainstorm meant I had to stop searching or feel Michelle’s wrath).
Charles Fort (Kinsale)
Despite our best efforts, we missed out on visiting Charles Fort due to poor planning. We saw the outside but didn’t get to go inside, which is the main draw of Charles Fort over James Fort.
Unlike James Fort across the inlet, Charles Fort is a little less ruined allowing visitors to walk around its interior. You’ll notice, too, that Charles Fort is substantially larger than James Fort. In fact, at the time of its construction, this fort was Britain’s largest star-shaped fort. You can climb the ramparts for views of the harbor or go among its walls for different exhibits on the fort.
The Titanic Experience (Cobh)
Cobh’s Titanic Experience is the other major sight in the area we missed. We had the choice of this museum or The Queenstown Story, and since Michelle and I had both seen Titanic exhibits before, we decided to opt for the latter.
Having said that, the Titanic Experience does sound like an interesting museum. To start, the building where the museum is housed is the same building where the final passengers of the Titanic boarded the ship on its fateful voyage. The museum itself contains an audiovisual presentation detailing the Titanic’s short life and then demise as well as other various exhibits related to the ship.
Where to Stay in County Cork
Most everyone who has been to Ireland will agree that one of the best things about Ireland are its smaller villages and towns. Kinsale is a great example of these smaller towns!
You could stay in Cork for a big city feel, but you’d really be doing yourself a disservice, especially if your itinerary already includes Dublin.
Despite Kinsale’s small size and lack of big-ticket attractions, the town itself with all of its colorful buildings, pubs and restaurants makes it worth a stay for at least one night.
The only downside to Kinsale is it’s a bit out of the way if you’ll be driving to Cork or Cobh. In particular, it’s a 45-minute drive to Cobh where some of my recommendations are located because you have to drive through Cork’s traffic. It’s not a dealbreaker, but it is something to consider when planning your itinerary.
Where to Eat and Drink in County Cork
The Quays (Cobh)
Right on the water, The Quays is a good spot for a drink and bite to eat if you’re only in Cobh for a brief time. This restaurant sits in between the Titanic Experience and the Queenstown Story museums making it convenient if you’re visiting them. As long as the weather’s good enough to sit outside for the views, you should definitely check out The Quays!
Fishy Fishy (Kinsale)
Fishy Fishy is a seafood restaurant stocked with a local menu supplied by the area’s fishermen. The restaurant sits just off the water next to a small town park. It has both indoor and outdoor seating if you want a seat outside for the views.
The menu is a bit on the pricier side, but it’s worth it for how tasty everything is. Because of that, Fishy Fishy is a popular restaurant in Kinsale. Make sure to get reservations in advance to guarantee a table.
Kitty O’Se’s (Kinsale)
For a bit of Irish craic, check out Kitty O’Se’s at the corner of Pearse Street and The Glen. It’s hard to miss at night with the sounds of traditional Irish music coming from its door.
In addition to being a fun pub with good music, Kitty O’Se’s also has a food menu. We didn’t have any food here, so I can’t comment on its quality. However, this pub was pretty busy when we came in for music. It might be a good idea to check out Kitty O’Se’s for dinner to make sure you have a seat for music.
Hamlets (Kinsale)
We snuck into Hamlets in the middle of a storm to escape the rain (coincidentally, the only heavy rain we had in two weeks in Ireland). We walked by Hamlets earlier, and it’s colorful outdoor seating made us want to come back later. It was serendipity that we were right here when the rain started.
Hamlets’ best quality is its quirky atmosphere and decor. The outdoor area is made up to look like various colorful storefronts with bright blue tables and statues of fantastical creatures. Inside, the restaurant is similarly decorated to create a whimsical ambience.
They also have an extensive drink menu with different options besides the typical Guinness and Murphy’s. The food menu was less impressive with no cohesive theme between options. The food itself wasn’t particularly memorable. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t anything worth writing about.
Armada Bar (Kinsale)
Armada Bar isn’t one of Kinsale’s nicest pubs. It feels gritty and divey. These aren’t necessarily bad things, but if you’re looking for more atmosphere, head somewhere else. That said, if you want a pint in a pub with a strong local flair or just a break from the rest of the tourists, Armada Bar could be a good option.
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Resources to Book Your Trip to County Cork
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